Digital Art Groups
Printing Platinum-profit from digital negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 3 / 7
Part 3 / 7 – Materials.
Digital negative:
OHP film Pictorico ……………………………………….. …… Bostick & Sullivan / Other
Darkroom / Printing:
Developer …………………………………………. ………….. chemical supplier and DIY
Palladium and platinum ……………………………… Crafts Chems. / B & S and DIY
Ferric oxalate ………………………………………… ……… Crafts Chems. / B & S and DIY
Na2 …………………………………………. …………………. Bostick & Sullivan
Citric acid ………………………………………… . …………. chemical supplier and DIY
Blotter ………………………………………… ……… art shop
Stains:
Watercolors (tube not in small cubes) art shop ..
Mounting:
Treadmill acid ……………………………………….. ……… frame computer. provider
Acid-free watercolor paper …………………………………. Store art
Cotton Museum board assembly ………………………………. frame computer. provider
Now things start to be interesting because we will prepare our own chemicals. Of course, you could buy all the pre-mixed chemicals, but it would be a waste of money, and if you will platinum print for a benefit that is not the way forward. For example, the developer I use and recommend is potassium oxalate, powder costs $ 35 per 1 kg of B & S, which about four liters of solution. Since the developer does not rule you can think of four liters can go a long way, it is not true. Each session print that I have to replace 100 to 200 ml of developer. My advice is to make you potassium oxalate mixture of oxalic acid and potassium carbonate can be purchased in bulk. If you call a chemical company (we have a lot, even here in a small country like Ireland) found that a 20 kg bag of costs very little oxalic acid, the same for potassium carbonate. Unfortunately I forgot the cost because I bought my last supply of chemicals (20 kg bags) for six years and still sufficient for the coming years. As mentioned it was cheap, like $ 100 / $ 150 for the whole range which certainly includes two bags of the customs agent that I recommend, citric acid. From this you will need plenty, and it's B & S, which costs $ 12 for 1kg, once again, I recommend a chemical company, which will provide a 20 kg bag of probably the same price. Since all these chemicals come in powder form, if properly stored never go wrong. I, however, that suppliers, including the picture as B & S can provide the bulk chemicals, but I would check some chemical companies anyway. Please note that suppliers such as B & S and Form photographers have helped many get started in alternative processes that also sponsor forums etc so if you can buy them and not non-photographic business. I personally can not afford to import U.S. and pay a premium so it is, in fact, excellent service and support, of which B & S and others are well known. Alternatively, it could join a group of users, such as Apug where maybe they can join a group purchase to save some money, especially when buying metals. Luckily, ferric oxalate and Na2 are not expensive (Na2 is really expensive, but 20% of the solution bottle last ages.) One thing that I would not do, however, is to purchase kits with a little bit of everything including paper, only for yourself started – I think it's a waste of money.
Before starting the procedure a word of warning: the products Platinum chemicals used are highly toxic (more toxic than silver print) so be careful and if you go the way I recommend is, stock oxalic acid, etc. please keep in a dry place and protected and away from children and pets.
Procedures for potassium oxalate:
Use a plastic bucket, large (10 liters). Sign up with a score of 5-liter level. Pour into 3 liters of tap water. Dissolve 900 g of carbonate potassium completely. Dissolve (slowly!) 800g of oxalic acid. This can be dangerous, make lots of bubbles and become hot. Use a mask, gloves and eye and stay in a well ventilated area. When finished, more than 5 liters. Finally add another 150g of oxalic acid. First solution is sometimes used do not expect great results, what I mean is that a new developer, and eventually become old, darker and more like a fine wine. You can put in palladium him a syringe if you want to be richer. Always prepare a 10-liter bottle of solution that I use to replace my normal work two-liter bottle, which is now several years old. Note: if you leave the solution in the tray for a long time ie 24 hours or more it begins to oxidize and turn green, so Please avoid that. Furthermore, after a while you will probably find at the bottom of the bottle of working solution some green crystals, these are easy to remove only the empty bottle poured into a tray of solution used citric acid and shaking.
The customs agent is mixed when necessary, only three teaspoons of 1.5 liters of water. I use three bins with 1.5 liters each in each sequence and 3-4 away the first impressions and make a new one. The last group should always be clear.
So that solutions for the coating procedure as follows:
Palladium: Use a 100 ml bottle. Prepare 110ml of hot water (Preferably distilled, though using tap water.) Fill 3 / 4 of the bottle with hot water, dissolve it first 7g cooking salt, then 10 g of palladium chloride. Pour the remaining water in B & S 100 ml bottles of 110ml accepted. Stir until dissolved.
Platinum: I prepare 50ml only. Just dissolve 10g of potassium chloroplatinite 50ml water. Platinum and palladium are not bad and obviously are not sensitive to light so do not worry if you prepare a lot of them.
Ferric oxalate: I have to prepare 50 or up to 100 ml of this as it does not last long (keep in the dark). For 50ml, first dissolve 0.7gr of oxalic acid, then ferric oxalate 15g. Oxalic acid would not be necessary, but keeps the solution for longer and prevents fogging. Be careful with these small amounts, because if you overdo it, the result will show more contrast views and have no idea why. One of the things I like to print platinum is that if you make an impression now, then after three years you have to do the same impression again will come out just the same, provided that are consistent with the preparation of chemicals and procedures. I've never been able to obtain this level of consistency with the silver. Back to our sensitizer. Unfortunately, This solution requires a reality shake well (this is why we recommend preparing a 50ml bottle of 100 ml). Shake for a while and then I prepare a pot of boiling water to the temperature of the bottle to the immersion in hot water for a time, stir again, etc. Leave overnight and if in the morning after seeing things in the bottom of the bottle, you have to shake all over again. ferric oxalate powder is a very unpleasant 'Dust' to sort things baby powder, and very toxic (and sensitive to light) so be careful. Use a mask, even when mixed in small quantities and thoroughly clean the area afterwards. In addition, in my experience, for very often the culprit when it comes to printing problems: low contrast, or spots, or blurred impressions thing, first thing to do is mix a new bottle of a new batch.
Na2 (chloroplatinate sodium). This is the contrast agent. This is B & S as 20% solution. Buy the bottle 10ml, it will last a long time since I hardly used. I am against contrast agents in general, because they ruin the impression. Our negative stain as you will use only 1 or 2 drops of 2.5% Na2 to prevent fogging. You need three 25ml bottles, labeled as follows: 10%, 5%, and 2.5%. To make the mixture of 10% solution dropper full of 20% and (obviously) of water. To make the mixture of 5% solution dropper full of 20% and three water droppers. To make the mixture solution of 2.5% a dropper full of 20% and seven water droppers. With the exception of special situations, poorly developed or non-digital negative so far to use mainly 2.5% for the mixture accordingly.
Part 4 / 7 analysis of darkroom techniques.
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