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Printing Platinum-profit from digital negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 02/07

Part 2 / 7 – Equipment.

Do the negatives:
Computer w / Photoshop ………………………………………. ……… that should have already
Inkjet printer …………………………………….. .. ………………… must already

Darkroom / Printing:
UV unit ………………………………………… ………………………. DIY / Electrical equipment suppliers
Contact printing frame ……………………………………. …. ……… DIY
1.5 "Brush Washing (better quality is not cheap )………………………… art store or online
short glass, 2 ml syringes …………………………………….. . ……. hardware store / pharmacy
Amber bottles with dropper ………………………………………. … Bostick &Sullivan;
………………………………………… Dryer . ……………………….. DIY hardware store
………………………………………… Blotter ………………. local art shop
Electronic timer ………………………………………… stores ……………. / Online
Mechanical timer ………………………………………… …………… dark room equipment. online provider
5 trays, 2 clamps ……………………………………… ……………… darkroom equipment. provider
Rack ………………………………………… …………………. DIY
Scales …………………………………………. ……………………… eBay / Shops

……………………………………….. Air heater ………………. fourth largest supplier of furniture
Press …………………………………………. ………………………. DIY / Hardware

Stains:
Knife (good )……………………………………… ………. frame computer. provider
Lupa (large )…………………………………….. . ……………. photo equipment. provider
0000 brush (good quality )……………………………………. . …… art shop

Mounting:
Cutting Monte ……………………………………….. . ……………… frame computer. provider

As you can see anything too difficult to find. If you have Photoshop (you do not need the latest version, of course, any version will do), there are several other graphics programs that cost less or even free. To print, I would say that any modern ink jet will up to the job. Since Epson printers are very widespread, we will discuss a curve that should work on any model of Epson UltraChrome inks (starting with the economic Epson R 800/1800).

Then assuming you already have a computer with Photoshop and a printer, the agenda, the more expensive UV unit. This is easy make and took less than a weekend to build it. I made a simple wooden frame, and then I used 10 x 450 mm Philips UV lamps each connected to the ballast and starter which is the minimum for 8×10 "prints. When ordering these materials will also get some clues to the wiring, a switch, some big fans small (like the ones inside a PC from the power supply and CPU) and the installation of plastic bulbs. Fans are recommended but not mandatory.

There is little or no welding and diagrams are very simple. This is a comprehensive list of parties:

10 15W lamp length 450 mm (Or more) 1 "365 nm in diameter cover wavelength G13
10 15W ballast (also called ignition switch / choke)
Boot 10 fluorescent lamp
10 starters for beginners
20 Lampholder
A switch
1 Power supply 110/220V computer fan
12V CPU 2 fans
1 Power 12V
One carries the electrical wiring for fluorescent

These lamps are often called lamps insect, or black light lamps. Just make sure that the wavelength is about 350/365nm. I'm not sure if the tanning lamps are good for us as they are about 300 nm.

The wiring is very easy. Connect the starter motor to two pins on the end of the tube. Of the other two free pins, one goes directly the power (N), the other goes to the ballast and then to food (H). Thus, only a simple wiring repeated ten times. Note that two ballasts that feed two lights there, so I'd have five of them. However, I tried and did not work, so stick to a lamp ballast.

The cabinet is made of two separate pieces of MDF. The bottom with a sliding tray and only three vertical frames, and a front hinged to allow access. Part top, containing a side lamps and the other the "electronics", snugs on the bottom from the top. I can put spacers, put the lights more high, or I can remove some wood to download. As is, the distance between the lamps (15W x 10 = 150 W) is 4 inches giving me the time of exposure I (~ 4 minutes).

At the top is a small power supply that feeds a couple of CPU fans 12 V at the top to take the heat of reactors. At the bottom there is a greater range 110/220V because there is heat there as well. The whole unit is actually quite heavy. One thing I did is paint the inside white, but as said I was happy with my time of exposure as it was. The lamps are very close (5 mm away). In many years of use I have never been replaced a lamp or other component, and despite the "homemade" look, a base unit as it will serve you well.

The following ourselves is to create the contact printing frame, which is simply a wooden plate covered with a sheet of rubber and a glass top. To avoid pressure uneven, use a cup heavy (heavier than you can find) secured with eight strong clips giants everywhere. No need to buy one of those expensive "process alternative "center hinged frames of contact, the van to inspect the print under the sun. Avoid side hinges and a bit of imagination or if it may be printed 25a in the center (or elsewhere) are not clear impressions. Remember that one of the beauties of contact printing is sharp, although printing can not pt-pd show as clearly as contact prints on silver, for the role. Before printing in platinum which is used to contact prints on silver, and has Newton's rings has always been a problem. Since I switched to platinum, the problem has disappeared, probably due to the rough paper I guess. Anyway, I do not need to buy expensive anti-Newton glass.

The rest of the equipment needed in the darkroom is more or less directly, an important element is the brush. I like the Grumbacher Golden Edge (size 1.5-inch), which is perfect for coating 4×5 to 11×14 and larger. This brush has metal parts to corrode. In my case I have been using mine for almost three years. I would not recommend a cheap wash brush (too thin), and Japanese brushes tons seem attractive because no expensive and no metal parts, but in reality, not work and also allow sows. Finally, my advice on the glass rods of the layer is: do not buy, just use a brush.

At this point before starting the purchase and construction need to take your mind on the size you're printing. Many books recommend 4×5 "for beginners, this is not for me good advice, because you can not easily evaluate small prints. Personally I think small prints even more difficult to make large impressions. From a marketing point of view and, in general, not just 4×5 "prints are more often ignored, but many collectors find 8×10" the minimum size to make a purchase. Therefore, go directly to 8×10 "and stay there even when printed" professionally ", or at least until they are a true master. This is a convenient size that does not require much coating and is ideal for mounting in 13×15 "or 16×20" and therefore for mail order. It is also a good compromise between size and cost of printing and mounting plate. With a standard sheet of mounting board which can be make either three 13×15 "mounts or two 16×20" mounts (mount over) with little waste. If you go for 8×10 "trays will be slightly larger, but not too: I can print my 8×10 "images of 10×12" paper or less, there is no need to leave a large border around the image to be killed anyway. No doubt that large 10×20 "or 11×14" platinum prints are something to behold, for this reason, one thing that was going to build large is the UV unit. And lamps do not cost much more and if in future you really want to try more impressions trays just bought new and make a new contact printing frame.

The five trays on the shopping list are for developers, cleaning bathrooms (3 trays) and the fifth is for a wash tray. This will be bigger the other (However, always wash a print at a time). It is easy to do: in the end, make a hole in each vertical side, one before the other, just below the top edge. Slide through holes in a rigid plastic pipe (I used one from a toy), which has already provided will equal distance (1 / 2 ") Diameter. Connect a pipe wrench on the side of the pipe. Close the other side with a cork. You have a cheap machine.

You will have to a drying unit cover sheets (except for the final print, which is allowed to dry overnight). I just buy one of those hot air heaters for bathrooms, which I mounted on top of a simple home made wooden box. The box has a device side and the background will mesh to allow air and moisture to escape. I just put the freshly coated paper in the bottom and warm air drying in a couple of minutes or less. Do not use hair dryer for your heat is too concentrated and also tend to spit out particles (the engine) in the paper. The drying of the final print is not a problem. With a little plastic mesh (purchased at a Gardening, which also have rubber sheets to pad the contact print frame) I made four or five very basic drying frames, stacked one on top of other and about 8 inches apart.

The last on the list is a cold press to flatten prints. Leaving the tracks of floor under a pile of books not very professional! I used a large sheet of MDF for the base, so I did a sort of large flat box the same size as the base with two handles on top, inside box fitted sheets me several lead (sold by the manufacturers or suppliers of roofing material) that will make for a top heavy indeed. Among the top and the base, 5 or 6 sheets of acid free mount size same database table / cover flatten allow up to 15-20 prints at a time. One night is enough to make prints flat enough, two days is even better (which is important because we want to mount with the tabs on the corner, ie not attached of course).

There are two timers in the list. I usually use a digital (with alarm) for exposing the print (so that I can do something else at present) and conventional (analog) in the wet part of the darkroom for developing and cleaning / washing times.

In the darkroom is not necessary to normal red or amber lights silver gelatin darkroom. I use two 40-watt tungsten bulbs, normal, and the other blue. I can use two separate switches so you can check the color of the print in daylight conditions (blue bulb) or any combination / strength of the two. Finally the evaluation of printing can not be done, however, when wet.

You do not need a densitometer or a wedge of step (unless you want to print the traditional negative).

Buy a few bottles of dark brown B & S, I would buy six 100ml normal capped and 12 vials of 25 ml with dropper cap. You will use seven small "Working" bottle (pd, pt, sensitizer, Na2 x 4) when printing, and the other used to store mixed solutions are used to feed bottles work.

The scale must be very precise, I use a 50 gram digital scale to prepare the metals, and a larger and less accurate for mixing the developer products chemicals.

Spots are well done with a scalpel (Swann-Morton as flat handle "3" and the plates C10) and a small good quality brush. The lens should be large enough to permit working with both eyes open.

You will need a cutter assembly. I use a Logan nothing fancy, but it work without problems. I bought the "intermediate" model for many years and then I made several modifications to improve (such as bus stops, etc..) Store upright or flat, otherwise the warp. I use a new blade for almost every session of assembly. Before being discarded, the leaves used are recycled a time when knife Logan (low cost to buy) used to cut full-size plates. To do this, you will need a rule (expensive) or you can use same mount mower, which I recommend. In this case, buying a cutter assembly large enough to cut full sheets.

Many beginners tend to consider leave the assembly work to a local framer, please do not do this. They are very expensive and worse, often do a good job, not to mention the hassle to get the prints, includes further work, etc. Also, the work has to be very precise because if you sell mounted prints (ie, no frame), people who hold in their hands and you will see each error. I also recommend buying a low cost "Burnishing bone 'to flatten the raised edges around the bush, so that their customers do not sit with their fingers when holding the mounted print. Last reason to mount itself is that if you follow my advice in other parts of the articles on the coverage of black brush strokes assembly with more than you can use the bezel window to make any adjustments minutes late crop the image. See Part 6 for details about editing.

A last thing we need: relax! Especially if it comes from the silver color, enjoy the switch. Platinum print is much more natural and a kind of quiet. After many years of traditional printing in silver (the extension and continuation of contact) I have found that a print session Platinum is usually more pleasant. Another great advantage when printing from digital negative is that you can be almost certain, even before entering the dark room, the impression will be OK and minor adjustments required.

Part 3 / 7 analysis of materials.

drawing’s and painting’s ( some old artwork)

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