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Printing Platinum-profit from digital negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 06/07

Part 6 / 7 – Presentation of the fine print.

Stains and etching.

Stains are made with just two watercolors, carbon black and burnt sienna (in tubes), mixed accordingly. The location is a art and there is no magic solution to it. Use a good magnifying glass. Keep a piece of paper near the color test in which (I confess that I use the same impression that I spotted on, evidence of the brush along their borders). Mix a little coffee with a little black. Use a fine brush, almost dry, much pigment do not want a huge stain in the printing. Stay light and "build up" the intensity. Basically stay lighter than you think.

I seem to detect break, but many consider it annoying. Sometimes I serialize the process, I follow all the tracks in front of me and start with the darkest shadows all I see, for example, all shades media and finally the highlights, adding drops of water to the mixture of watercolor. More difficult is engraved with a knife black spots. These come from suspended particles in metals. If you have too, there is something wrong with his technique of mixing or with their solutions, try to filter them (also always manage Shake bottle gently without them.)

Note that you will get some black spots, so you better get used to dispose of them. Use a knife quality. Almost all sessions stained I can change the blade with a new order to buy a lot. Of course you do not want to make a hole in the printing, so light states. From time to time stop, put a small piece of tissue paper on the ground and, with the back of the nail, one motion to gently push the paper fibers raised down. Use an easy role, such as cranes, as previously recommended.

Handmade papers, such as Gampi have very long fibers, which which means they are very difficult to record. Some printers use white pigment to cover the ground and then used water colors for the place now target density correct. After having tried with disastrous results, I prefer to burn out. If you ruin a print, not throw it away. Keep them in practice or in the future, you may want to try something new. For example now I'm testing a gloss varnish, some time ago I tried to tone, color etc hand

Assembly.

Assembly requires first a bit of watercolor paper free acid (45lbs/96gsm) to the corners. Just get an A4 pad in the local art shop and after cutting a few leaves in 1 / 2 "strips of times and cut corners to make four simple. You will use acid free tape to attach the corners mounting plate. Here in Europe we have a wonderful acid free tape is called PH7 adhesive and easy to remove with a hair dryer. You do not want to buy that has to be sticky or wet type cotton expensive. I cut a 2 "piece of tape, then cut into two strips and apply more than two corners, so with 4 "to take all four corners. The mounting board, of course, a completely personal choice. I use Colormount Museum 100% cotton, with a shade of ivory almost white, this forum coincides with my impressions of perfection.

In case of sale or present your window prints mounted and matted bevel? Always! Never sell (not even shown in a gallery) print unmounted. The first reason is because they look bad and cheap. Secondly, because I do not know how or where the customer will be mounted. Third, because the viewer will see the black border (of the strokes), which as noted destroy the dark shadows of the image. I can not believe that there are printers who prefer to brush border shows – as part of the process anyway and not the real image – just to show that the paper is coated hand, so much value? I see no other reason). Fourth, and he will sign the actual printing, but also probably the number sign and mounting over just below the print, and sign back of the bracket as well, and possibly have a stamp with relevant information such as title date, etc, since the use tabbed mounting corner, the impression will be easier to get out of the mountain, if this were necessary. The two parts, assembly and more hill, she turned around to the side with the same acid free tape. The substrate must be closed with adhesives or other techniques, so to make easy access to print control and disposal, in case something happens in the media.

Frame size is also important. For transit, presentation and storage printing up to 8×10 "must be mounted at least 13×15." This leaves nice border all around with the advantage of lower cost (can be completed three assemblies with a full sheet), including lower shipping cost as well if you sell by mail.

Personally, if I know that the work will be framed and hung, trying to offer the mounts to 16×20 "(for a 8×10") due to increased support greatly improves the quality and aesthetic value of an impression (in case to know that an impression is usually framed print is slightly lighter too.) I use a simple Excel spreadsheet to help calculate borders in the assembly. Usually you have a PC in my area of development, Photoshop and Excel both load during assembly session. This way I can quickly check the exact negative (print) in size with Photoshop and Excel calculation correct border cutting.

No need to mention, of course, will use a pencil (not ink) to sign and date your prints, and assembly. If you want to write more details such as name and print your own details, not use stickers on the back of the saddle, which turn yellow and fall off after a relatively short time and should be avoided. If you do not have a stamp (with alcohol-based ink that dries immediately) just use a pencil.

Each copy must have its own certificate of authenticity. It gives details materials, the average date, editioning and any other relevant information such as warranty or details about yourself if you want. Something as simple as this may:

Luca Paradisi photograph of Fine Arts in platinum / palladium

From June 8, 2009

Frank Linn
221 Jane Street
Newton, MA 02461
United States

Title: After Sunset
Negative: 2004
Print: 2009
Edition: No. 11 of 24
Book: platinum / palladium metals on natural Crest Cranes Watercolor acid free paper
Monte: Colormount 200 series standards Cotton Museum

Archival prints are guaranteed for life. The reproduction of the images is not allowed.

… Followed by his signature, website, etc.

Many photographers I also attach a separate document with a brief summary about themselves, previous exhibitions etc. I've also seen others with a brief note to explain the process.

When finished with the installation, you can finally sign, date and number (if editioning) your artwork. finishing touches (after a rigorous final inspection) is a sheet of acid free paper or parchment over another print (under the window bevel) to promote their protection, and polystyrene clear wrap for safe transit and look "gift." When shipping, use 3mm MDF sheet cut to size to fit the mounting prints that work very well, even when the overseas shipping, and customers receive a good impression, even before looking at the artwork itself. (Tip: cut 1 cm strips of foam core and fit them around the print. If the package contains more prints or a framed print just cut and strip stack more of them.) My Personal statistics: when mounted to 13×15 "the risk of damage, wherever the ship is almost zero. When mounted to 16×20", I had some slight damage (Bent corners etc) a couple of times over several years is not so bad. With a size bigger than that, I tried once two 24×28 "prints and reached badly damaged, so now stick to small prints in online sales.

Final reflection on the assembly and presentation: unfortunately beautiful prints ruined by poor presentation, poor cheap mounting board or cutting technique are not so rare. I have seen copies corner mounted with cheap plastic tabs imprints even directly on the corners with common transparent tape. I have also received impressions wrapped in cardboard is used with soap ads wash it. The same care when using the photographic and printing should be applied to the final stages as well.

Framing.

It covers in detail the development would go beyond the scope of this article, I can, however, offer some advice. First, many artists prefer leaving the framing for local framer, thinking it is something of a science, or special equipment required. I would advise against for the same reasons mentioned in assembly. It is true that a considerable investment in materials for framing. I use only two different aluminum frames (black and dark brown finish with a very simple and minimalist.) These can usually buy pre-cut frames providers (for cutting aluminum trim requires industrial machinery) and minimum quantities are usually quite low. All you have to do is calculate how many feet you need in terms of size chosen, in my case, for example, these are 13×15 "and 16×20".

Aluminum frames, such as Nielsen look good suit, perfectly art prints, and of course, are free of acid and eternal. Frame mounting hardware supply takes only minutes. To finalize the framework that I use foam core 5 mm for the rear panel, and acrylic, which has the advantage of being unbreakable for transit safer and easier to handle and cut than glass (though more expensive and prone to scratches but again does not have the horrible green tint glass.) A knife and a screwdriver are the only tools you need to frame.

If you get a price list from a provider frame you will notice that the final price of a 16×20 "frame is less than you think (about 05.06 U.S. dollars per meter – you need two meters to make a 16×20 "frame – along with a sheet and a backing board, acrylic least $ 15 for a full frame) and a good opportunity to make some gains on the sale of print, much less the advantage of doing the work yourself concerned minutes.

Part 7 / 7 will discuss the sale of their work and the final words.

Cartune Xprez: Nov 7th @ the Alamo Drafthouse

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